When you want one proper meal out that everybody remembers, this is it. Chef Danny Mellman has been cooking here for years, building the menu around local produce, meat and seafood and letting good ingredients do most of the talking. The room is warm and timber-lined, comfortable rather than formal, so nobody needs to change out of what they wore hiking.
Expect Southern cooking done carefully: mountain trout, slow-cooked pork, seasonal vegetables from nearby farms, and a wine list with more thought behind it than a town this size has any right to. The bar is a good place to wait if your table is not quite ready.
Reservations are strongly recommended and close to essential for larger groups, so call ahead as soon as you know your dates. If you are booking for eight or more, give them as much notice as you can. They serve from 11am, and an early evening table is the easier booking to get in peak season. It is a five-minute walk from the railway depot, which makes a lunchtime train and an evening meal an easy day to put together.